Stocking up on herbs

My herb garden is a dangerous place these days for people who are allergic to bee stings like me. Usually I cut down the different mints in mid-summer but this year I wanted to be kind to the much-needed pollinators so I left everything untouched. As a result the area is swarming with bees and other insects. Even a hasty pulling of the largest weeds the other day felt like zigzagging through enemy lines.

Unfortunately I am not equally successful with all of the herbs. The production of thyme, one of my favorite herbs for cooking, can never meet the demand. Cilantro is another finicky grower. And, I seem to always forget that I have it, and when I do remember and want to use it in a dish, it’s already past its prime and has started to go into seed.

For the ones that do grow, here’s how I stock up on herbs for the winter:

Basil Air-dry in bunches, then strip off papery leaves and crumble finely using a colander. This retains small pieces of stem and other woodsy parts. Or chop up leaves by hand or in a food processor. Do not spin dry the leaves so some water still clings to them, which makes them easier to chop  in a food processor. Put basil puree in an ice-cube tray, fill up with water and freeze. Store basil cubes in a freezer container or a freezer bag and use for soups or pasta dishes.

Dill – Air dry or freeze. I usually let one or two plants go into seed and collect the seeds for next year. Dill seeds are also great for pickling.

Marjoram Air dry and crumble.

Mint – Air dry and crumble like basil. Powdered mint mixed with granulated sugar makes a great addition to fresh fruit salad (I always squeeze some lime on it too).

Oregano – Air dry and crumble.

Parsley – Freeze leaves or whole stems and use in soups and other cooked dishes.

Rosemary – The winters on our Pennsylvania mountaintop are too cold for rosemary so I grow it in a large pot and bring it inside before the first strong frost. I have had the same plant for several years now. In the winter I keep it in a barely heated room and water it very moderately. This way I can cut fresh rosemary year round although the shoots get a bit leggy in late winter. It just takes bigger amount the get the same flavor.

Sage – Air dry and crumble or freeze whole leaves for dishes such as Saltimbocca. Or, use for sage butter, which is delicious on baked winter squash and baked potatoes, or to rub under the skin of a chicken or turkey.

To make sage butter, mix 1 stick soft butter, 2-3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh sage, finely grated peel of ½ organic lemon, and salt (amounts are to taste). If the sage leaves are large, cut out the thick mid-rib with a sharp knife. Refrigerate or freeze in small containers or in an ice-cube tray.

Savory – Air dry, crumble and use for Whole Wheat Herb Bread

Sizeable breakfast

In food, like in so many other areas, everything is typically bigger in the United States than in other countries. Pancakes are one of the few exceptions. German pancakes, the kind my grandmother fed me for lunch (unlike in America, pancakes are usually not eaten for breakfast in Germany), are as large as a dinner plate. They are thicker and quicker to prepare than French crêpes. Because they are so large, they are easily filled and rolled up.

We are not big breakfast eaters but once in a while, when I have time in the morning and feel very hungry, I take out my good old Dr. Oetker cookbook (the German equivalent to The Joy of Cooking) and make German pancakes.

Today was such a rare pancake day. I layered two pancakes and filled them with a mix of fresh raspberries and blackberries from the garden and a cut-up peach from a local orchard. Then, very un-German, I mixed in a few tablespoons of maple syrup – enough of a breakfast to fill up two people.

German Pancakes with Fresh Fruit

¾ cup + 3 tablespoons (4½ ounces) all-purpose flour

2 eggs

¾ cup + ½ tablespoon (6½ ounces) low-fat or fat-free milk

1 teaspoon sugar

Pinch of salt

¼ cup seltzer water

2 tablespoons butter

Fresh fruit for filling

Maple syrup

Confectioner’s sugar for dusting

You also need:

A large pan with a lid

1. Beat the flour with the eggs and the milk in a bowl with a wire whisk or with an electric mixer to a smooth batter without lumps. Add sugar, salt and seltzer water.

2. Melt 1 tablespoon butter in a large non-stick pan until is sizzles but does not turn brown. Pour half of the batter into the skillet and wiggle the pan a bit so the batter is evenly distributed. Cook the pancake over low-medium heat until set all through the center and golden brown at the bottom.

3. Flip the pancake over using the lid and cook until golden brown from the other side. Place the pancake on a large plate.

4. Melt the remaining butter in the pan and bake the second pancake the same way.

5. Distribute the fruit over the first pancake and top with the second pancake. Dust with confectioner’s sugar and serve immediately.

Dressing up for harvest

Since I started freelancing and working from a home office ten years ago I can count the times I have bought pantyhose on two hands. But now pantyhose is on my shopping list – not for myself but for the Charentais melons in my garden.

After a short bout of panic the other day when I thought that the cucumbers, melons, zucchini and winter squash were affected by pests and disease, things are looking great now. I can almost watch the melons grow on the trellis. When they reach the size a bit smaller than a baseball, I place them in pieces of pantyhose (recyclable year after year) tied at the bottom and attach the top to the wire of the trellis with string. This way the weight is taken off the vines and the precious fruit is off the ground and off guard for groundhogs and other predators.

I cannot wait to pick the first melon, especially since there was basically no harvest in the rainy summer of 2009. The sure indicator that the melons are ripe is the fantastic sweet scent all over the garden.

I would write down my recipe for melon sorbet but I am going to wait on that. I don’t want to jinx things with too much optimism. Meanwhile I’ll go out and buy some inexpensive flesh-colored pantyhose.

Time for tomato sauce

Yesterday I went on a tour of the Rodale Institute and came home fully charged with new ideas. But today is a dreary, rainy Sunday – a perfect day to take care of what’s already there: the first big batch of tomatoes for sauce.

Unlike the grape and cherry tomatoes from my garden, the big tomatoes often look rugged. But in organic produce looks don’t matter. I use the prettiest tomatoes for eating raw and the majority goes into sauce for freezing.

My recipe for tomato sauce is based on 16 pounds of tomatoes (making approx. 12 pounds skinned and seeded) so even if you are a mathematical dummy like me, it’s easy to adapt the recipe for a smaller amount, especially because the amount of herbs and brown sugar is up to taste.

The crucial thing is to start with good, ripe tomatoes, and simmer the sauce uncovered for several hours.

I freeze the sauce in 1-quart freezer bags that I place flat on a baking sheet or tray until frozen (this way they can be stacked and take minimum space in the freezer). A way of getting the sauce even thicker later is to place the frozen bag in a bowl to thaw it slowly, pouring off the clear liquid that drains from the frozen sauce.

Thick Tomato Sauce

16 pounds ripe tomatoes

6 medium onions, chopped

1 cup olive oil

2½ teaspoons salt

2 tablespoons dried oregano or basil (or 1/3 cup finely chopped fresh basil)

2 tablespoons light brown sugar, more to taste

Freshly milled black pepper

You also need:

A large pot

A food mill

1. Bring water to a boil in a large pot. With a sharp knife cut a small X in the bottom of each tomato. Place the tomatoes in batches into the boiling water. When the skins start to curl after a few minutes, remove the tomatoes with a slotted spoon and place in a bowl of cold water. When they are cool enough to handle, remove the skins and cut out the core. Do this over a bowl in order to catch all the juices.

2. Coarsely cut the tomatoes (again over the bowl) and pass them through a food mill. This is a bit of a messy job but please resist the temptation to use a blender or a food processor to puree everything because the seeds have a slightly bitter taste and will affect the taste of the sauce.

3. Heat the oil the pot and cook the onions for 10 to 15 minutes until translucent yet not browned, stirring often. Add the skinned and seeded tomatoes and the salt and cook uncovered for 3 to 4 hours, stirring occasionally. If using dried oregano or basil, add it during the last hour. The sauce is ready when it is visibly reduced and thick and the olive oil separates on the top. Add brown sugar and pepper to taste.

4. Remove from the heat and let cool slightly. Puree the sauce with an immersion blender or in batches in a food processor. If you use fresh basil, add it now. Let cool completely before freezing.

Makes 18 cups